There's nowhere better for a walking safari than it's birthplace: the South Luangwa
. There’s something thrilling about walking where, moments earlier, an elephant passed by. Your guide exudes competence and seems equally at home as the pachyderm in this wonderland of tracks, trees and lagoons.
At every turn there’s something to gaze upon, some secret of the bush to be disclosed; a giraffe watching from behind a fig tree, a fish eagle thinking about breakfast, the track of a leopard in the sand.
The landscape opens as you reach the river. Upstream, elephant families drinking, playing, hosing themselves. Downstream a disturbed flock of birds launches noisily airborne. Midstream, a cacophony of snorting cavorting hippo — a dentist’s nightmare.
Walking into camp, ready for breakfast, and there it is sizzling, smelling like heaven. Hot coffee, fresh baked bread, bacon and eggs, fruit — the day is perfect and it’s barely started.