Slowly, the red sun sinks and a thousand elephant emerge from the baked plain to plunge thankfully into the Chobe River. It happens every day, gathering in intensity from August to November. The best vantage point is the river itself, as sounds of sploshing, trumpeting elephantine joy carry across the water. Any animal in need of a drink gathers here too, as a long, hot day on the Chobe plains draws to a close.